Care of Ferrets
By Susan Brown, DVM
The author would like to thank Jeffrey L. Rhody, DVM for technical
and editorial support for this revision.
Introduction
Ferrets are inquisitive, lively and charming little creatures that
have captured the hearts of thousands of people around the world.
They have an average lifespan of 5 to 7 years with the current
record being 14 years. The scientific name Mustela purorious furo
means “little smelly thief.” Ferrets are the domesticated form of
either the Eastern or Western European polecat. They have been
domesticated since at least 300 BC and were originally used for
rodent control and to hunt rabbits. The majority of ferrets in the
world today are kept as pets either in the house or in outdoor
enclosures. For more information about the history of ferrets,
please read History of the Ferret.
In this handout I will discuss the general care requirements of the
ferret as well as some of the diseases you should be aware of. The
information in this handout is an overview and there are other
articles you can read for more detailed information on a particular
topic. Good books include Ferrets for Dummies by Kim Schilling,
Ferrets (Complete Pet Owner’s Manuals) by E. Lynn Morton. Other
articles available on Veterinary Partner relevant to subjects
covered in this article include Rethinking the Ferret Diet, Ferret
Grooming, Canine Distemper in Ferrets, Ferrets Product Guide, Flea
Control for Ferrets, Lumps and Bump on Ferret Skin,
Gastrointestinal Disease in Ferrets, and Prostate Disease in
Ferrets.
Diet
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning they are designed to eat
whole prey items, which includes all parts of the killed animal.
They have to eat animal tissue to meet their nutritional
requirements. Plants, including fruits and vegetables, are not a
significant part of a natural ferret diet. Ferrets have a very
short gastrointestinal (GI) tract and the intestinal flora (the
organisms living in the GI tract) are very simple, unlike the flora
of animals that eat more vegetation. It takes about 3 to 4 hours
for food to go from one end to the other and thus the food eaten
must be of very high quality because there is little time to digest
and absorb it. Ferrets tend to eat several smaller meals and carry
any excess to their dens to eat later. Did you ever have a ferret
that took food and tucked it away in the corner of the cage, or
under a piece of furniture?
Because of the short GI tract and the poor absorption of nutrients,
ferrets require a diet that is highly concentrated with FAT as the
main source of calories (energy) and highly digestible MEAT-BASED
PROTEIN. This would match the basic composition of a prey animal,
not excluding the essential vitamins and minerals it also contains.
Ferrets should never be fed carbohydrates (such as vegetable, fruit
or grains) as the main source of energy in the diet. Ferrets cannot
digest fiber, as is found in some vegetable and fruit sources. If
there is a significant amount of fiber in the diet it serves to
lower the nutritional value of the food. As mentioned, ferrets need
a highly digestible meat-based protein in the diet. Vegetable
protein is poorly utilized. Ingestion of excess vegetable protein
can be associated in ferrets with such diseases as bladder stones,
poor coat and skin disease, eosinophilic gastroenteritis (wasting,
diarrhea, and ulcerations of the skin), poor growth of kits and
decreased reproduction. Dog food and vegetarian-type pet foods are
completely inappropriate for use in ferrets because of the high
level of vegetable protein and fiber. The bottom line is that
ferrets use fat for energy, not carbohydrates, and they need a
highly digestible meat-based protein, not vegetable protein.
Another concern regarding the feeding of high carbohydrate foods to
ferrets is the stress what may be created in the beta cells of the
pancreas. Unfortunately, insulinoma, which is a cancer of the beta
cells, is extremely common in ferrets over two years of age in the
U.S. The main function of the beta cell is to respond to increases
in glucose in the blood stream by producing insulin to control it.
If normal beta cells are bombarded with higher than normal levels
of glucose (which comes from digestion of carbohydrates) they can
become hypertrophied (overactive) trying to keep up with insulin
demand. If the high carbohydrate diet continues, the result may be
a complete burnout (or atrophy) of the cells, which is what happens
when a pet or a person develops diet-induced diabetes. However,
another possibility is that instead of the cells burning out, they
go from hypertrophy to neoplasia (cancer). Neoplasia is an abnormal
growth of cells and can be preceded by a hyperplastic condition. I
would like to stress that this exact mechanism has not been
scientifically proven in ferrets to date and there are no known
models of this phenomenon. Nevertheless, this scenario is entirely
within the realm of possibility. It has been disturbing to note in
countries where ferrets were fed a raw carnivore-type diet in years
past that insulinoma was a rare occurrence but now in these same
countries where processed diets are becoming popular, cases of
insulinoma are on the rise.
The most appropriate diet for a ferret would be whole prey foods
such as rats, mice or chicks. However, I realize that the average
American feels squeamish or downright distressed by the thought of
feeding these foods. However, owners of reptiles that are obligate
carnivores, such as snakes, must feed these prey foods routinely,
as there is no alternative for these reptile pets. If you are
interested in trying this diet with your ferret then read
Rethinking The Ferret Dietfor information on sources for
disease-free, humanely-killed frozen prey foods.
The next best choice to feeding a whole prey diet is to feed a
balanced raw carnivore diet. There are more and more of these diets
available in either freeze-dried or frozen form as pet food
companies realize that heat processing the food and making baked
kibble formed from grain products may not be the answer for our
carnivorous pets. Several of the fresh, frozen or freeze-dried
carnivore diets have been successfully used in ferrets. My current
recommendations are Archetype Diet for ferrets by Wysong and
Nature's Variety raw or freeze dried feline diets. Wysong diets are
cold-processed; contain beef, lamb and chicken meat products; are
well accepted; and come in small chunks so it is easy to feed. In
general, you should look for diets that are made from meat suitable
for human consumption (preferably organic) containing all the parts
of the animal (organ meat, muscle, fat and bone), a high level of
fat, and containing no grain or grain products, sweeteners or
chemical preservatives. Do not use diets designed only for dogs
that contain higher amounts of vegetables and grains. Because these
diets are not cooked (even the freeze-dried ones) you must be
vigilant about the hygiene in your kitchen just as you would when
handling raw meat or chicken prior to cooking for your family. Make
sure you clean counters and food bowls thoroughly. See Rethinking
The Ferret Dietfor information on Internet sources for other frozen
or freeze dried carnivore diets.
Now consider dry, processed ferret diets, the very diet most
veterinarians, ourselves included, have used for years. Although
there have been tremendous strides made in the quality of dry
ferret diets in the last 25 years, I have yet to see one that I
believe is completely appropriate for ferrets. Let's take a look at
the composition of these diets and compare that to what we know of
ferret nutrition. We have discussed that ferrets are carnivores and
need a high protein, high fat diet with minimal carbohydrates. To
use numbers, a dry ferret diet should contain at least 30% to 40%
crude protein and 15% to 20% fat. The protein should be of animal
origin and highly digestible. Unfortunately, pet food labels do not
indicate digestibility of the components and the protein percent
you read may contain both animal and plant sources of protein. In
addition, grains, such as corn, wheat or rice, are used not only to
increase protein but as a filler and as a means of binding the
final product together to make the kibble form. Ingredients on a
pet food label are given in the order of their amount in the diet,
starting with the largest. For ferrets, the first three ingredients
ideally should be meat-based. Processed dry foods are heated during
production and in the process nutrients can be destroyed or altered
and then have to be replaced artificially. In addition, other
additives may be used to keep the food from spoiling. To add insult
to injury, several of the diets contain dried fruits and
vegetables. Ferrets do not need these items, and in addition, the
dried form of a fruit or vegetable can make it nearly impossible
for the ferret to break down in its digestive tract because they
are often swallowed whole. I and other veterinarians have had
several cases in which ferrets needed emergency surgery to remove
pieces of dried fruit or vegetable that were blocking the intestine
consumed in a “ferret diet.” Clearly, these diets are packaged to
appeal to human consumers and may have little to do with
appropriate ferret nutrition. The good news is that with pressure
from consumers, pet food companies continue to look for more
appropriate ways of feeding our carnivorous companions while still
making it convenient.
The worst examples of processed diets are the ferret treat foods.
Nine out of ten ferret-specific treat foods I examined had no meat
products whatsoever and were comprised entirely of sweeteners and
grains, with some fruits and vegetables thrown in. This is not only
not healthy, it is downright dangerous.
In addition, people who use treats often use too many because it is
emotionally appealing to watch a ferret enjoy a snack. So if the
pet enjoys one treat, why not give him five or six? In an animal
with such a small body size, five or six treats might make up a
good portion of his food for the day. For an animal the size of a
ferret, a grape-sized treat is like a cantaloupe-sized treat for
us. Of course ferrets love the treats because they are attracted to
sweets, but that does not mean it is good for them! Many people
like candy, but if they ate candy as 25% of their diet, they would
have some serious health problems including diabetes! Again, the
packaging is for the human and as long as we keep buying it,
companies will keep making it.
If you decide to make a change, you may find that adult ferrets can
be very particular and will resist change. This is because ferrets
develop most of their taste preferences by four months of age but
they will eventually change if given no choice. I do not believe
that it is necessary to take a long time weaning a ferret off of a
less digestible and introducing him to a more digestible diet. I
prefer to keep that transition very short and eventually you have
to go “cold turkey” and only give them the new diet. If you keep
offering the old diet, there may never be a change to the new diet
because they will always go back to the original diet, particularly
if that is what they were getting prior to four months of age. It
will probably be necessary to let your pet get hungry before he or
she makes a change. Temporarily coating a new food with a fatty
acid supplement like Linotone® or vegetable or fish oil as an
enticement may help. However, be aware that ferrets that have
insulinomas should not be fasted for more than 6 hours. These
little guys may take a bit more time to change over the diet. If
your ferret is currently being treated for any illness, consult
your veterinarian first before making any changes.
Supplements
Ferrets do not need supplements of any kind if they are being fed a
balanced raw, freeze-dried or whole prey diet. If the ferret is
being fed a high quality dry ferret diet, it is unlikely he or she
will need routine supplements other than a fatty acid supplement in
cases where the hair coat is dry or the skin flaky in appearance.
• Fatty Acid
Supplements – Occasionally ferrets can develop a dry hair
coat or dry skin and may benefit from the use of an oral fatty acid
supplement. Coat or skin dryness can be due to a lack of sufficient
fat in the diet (seen with some dry diets) or a very dry
environment. However, overuse of fatty acid supplements can lead to
obesity. Dry itchy skin can also be a sign of adrenal disease.
Please consult your veterinarian if your ferret for the proper use
of a fatty acid supplement.
• Treat Foods -
Humans, not ferrets, have an emotional need for treat foods, so it
is not necessary to feed ferrets any treats. But if you must give a
treat, how about a nice piece of raw liver or heart, a bit of raw
muscle meat or raw egg? If raw food is something you are not ready
to try, use some bits of cooked meat or egg. Dog or cat treats that
are composed of freeze dried muscle or organ meat are appropriate
to use. Also, pieces of a freeze-dried carnivore diet can be
offered in the dry form. As mentioned, most commercial ferret
treats are completely inappropriate and actually can create a
health risk. Please read labels before you feed a commercial
product to your pet. Avoid getting your pet hooked on any high
carbohydrate treat, which includes cookies, breads, crackers,
cereal, ice cream and cake. Any sugar or fruit-based treat food,
including melon and raisins, should be considered junk food. While
occasional junk food treats may not cause any health issues, large
quantities of junk or small amounts offered frequently may
unbalance the diet or provide enough carbohydrates to impair
health. We all like to have the occasional treat. Many of us would
like to watch our pets enjoy a treat as well. However, we must
realize we weigh 50 to 100 times more than a large male ferret, and
junk food IS bad for us unless its ingestion is seriously
restricted. Consider these thoughts when choosing a treat and
remember the size difference when choosing the size portion you
offer.
• Hairball
Laxative – Hairball laxatives are generally composed of a
petroleum product such as Vaseline®, or a paraffin product plus a
sweetener such as molasses or corn syrup. It would be best if we
could avoid using sweeteners in the ferret's diet for reasons
already mentioned under the general diet section. However,
hairballs can develop in some ferrets over one year of age and this
might be related to a diet that does not contain the normal bone,
skin and fur of a prey animal that would help to move the ferrets
own hair through the intestinal tract. Since most ferrets are not
eating a whole prey diet, it may be beneficial to provide some sort
of lubricating agent to help remove the hair from the stomach
before it forms a compact mass. Try using only Vaseline, thereby
avoiding the sweetener in hairball products. You can put a
pea-sized amount on your pet’s front paw every third day. If that
doesn't work, try putting the Vaseline on the ferret's front paw
and he/she will naturally lick it off to keep clean. If Vaseline
does not work, try a small amount of feline hairball laxative
product.
Environment
• Caging and
Exercise – Ferrets should not be caged 24 hours a day. Like
all animals, they need exercise to develop strong bones and muscles
as well as for healthy mental activity. In addition, time out of
the cage spent exploring or playing is a healthy mental activity
that can help prevent behavioral problems. Ferrets have the
physiology of a predatory hunter and will play intensely for an
hour or so and then sleep deeply for several hours. Although
ferrets are nocturnal by nature, they will adjust their activity
schedule to yours without much fuss. The home cage should be a
minimum size of 24”x24”x18” high for up to two ferrets. The cage
can be multilevel, but avoid steep ramps because ferrets are not
natural climbers and could fall and injure themselves. Aquariums
are not suitable cages for ferrets because of inadequate air
circulation. Make sure the cage is made of a material that will be
easy to clean and deodorize and is indestructible to ferrets
digging in the corners. The cage floor can be solid, but should be
waterproof and easy to clean or made of wire mesh with openings no
larger than 1/4” to prevent foot injuries. Ferrets should be
allowed to exercise in a supervised, ferret-proofed exercise area a
minimum of 2 hours a day. This exercise period can be all at once
or divided up into two or three play periods. Ferrets in the wild
would spend a good deal of time in burrows underground, eating,
sleeping, and hunting. Think like a ferret, get down on your hands
and knees and look for areas that might be attractive to him or her
to dig or burrow into. Make sure you block off all escape routes
and remove toxic substances such as plants, household cleaners,
insecticides and rodenticides. Protect the carpeting from digging
with heavy plastic carpet protectors. Keep your pet from burrowing
into the bottom of your furniture or mattresses by covering these
areas with a solid piece of thin plywood, hardware cloth, or
Plexiglas®. The burrowing is not only damaging to the furniture,
but the ferret can eat the foam rubber inside and develop a fatal
intestinal obstruction. Recliner chairs should be removed because
ferrets like to climb into the chairs to sleep and when the chair
is reclined, the ferret can be crushed. Some pet stores and
Internet ferret supply sites sell moveable ferret exercise pens
that are great for allowing your pet to have time outside of the
cage while being protected from dangerous situations. You can place
a mat under the pen to keep the floor clean. These can even be used
outdoors with strict supervision. (Never leave your ferret(s) alone
outdoors in any open pen arrangement.) Make sure the bars on the
exercise pen are sufficiently narrow to prevent escape,
sufficiently far from the top to bottom to prevent your pet
climbing out, and the pen’s walls are at least 4 feet tall. Some
pens have smooth sides, such as those made of Plexiglas, to prevent
climbing or escape.
• Sleeping Area –
In the wild, ferrets would sleep in a dark, warm, dry nest
underground. We need to simulate this same environment by providing
sleeping material in which a ferret can feel safe. A sleeping area
can be as simple as a soft towel, old shirt or cut off trouser leg
or blouse sleeve. There are now a wide variety of sleeping
paraphernalia for ferrets sold at pet stores such as cloth tubes,
tents and hammocks. Occasionally a ferret will chew on cloth, but
this is usually baby behavior and most ferrets grow out of it. If
your pet does chew on cloth, remove the item from the cage and use
a small cardboard or wooden box with clean straw or hay for a
sleeping area. After the ferret matures try the cloth sleeping
materials again.
• Litter Box –
Ferrets can be litter box trained. Ferrets like to use the bathroom
in corners or where there is a vertical surface. With this in mind,
use a small cat litter box with low sides that can be placed in a
corner of the cage or exercise area. Do not use clay or clumping
kitty litter in the box because ferrets like to burrow and play in
the clean litter and the dust from the clay is damaging to the fur.
I have also seen ferrets that developed eye, nose and vulvar
irritation from clay litter. A pelleted or shredded bedding is
preferable, because it not only prevents the problems mentioned but
they are often more absorbent, non-toxic if swallowed, and can be
composted. There are a wide variety of suitable pelleted or
shredded bedding materials on the market sold either for cats of
for small mammals. Some examples of materials used for pelleted or
shredded beddings include: recycled paper; cellulose; and various
woods such as cedar, aspen or pine. There is no evidence that using
wood pellets with their slight aromatic smell is harmful to
ferrets. They do not spend a great deal of time in their litter
boxes, so any aromatic oils they would inhale would be
insignificant. As mentioned, ferrets back up to a vertical surface
to defecate and urinate, so only a thin layer of litter is needed
or all the waste material will go over the side of the box! Ferrets
do not cover up their waste so it will be necessary to change the
litter material several times a week to minimize stool odor. If the
ferret is allowed to exercise over a large area of the house it
will be necessary to place litter boxes in several locations. When
ferrets need to go, they will not travel far to take care of the
situation!
• Toys – Never
give your pet ferret any latex or foam rubber toys!!! Ferrets like
to chew on and then swallow these products and the result can be a
fatal intestinal obstruction. Make sure to remove any access to
foam or latex rubber items in your home such as stereo speakers,
headphones, rubber soled shoes, pipe insulation, rubber bands and
rubber dog, cat or baby toys. As mentioned under Cages and
Exercise, prevent access to the underside of furniture and
mattresses because these are also sources of foam rubber. Ferrets
have been known to eat toys made from pipe cleaners. In additional,
do not use any toys (like bean bags) that contain items inside such
as dried beans, nuts, grains or Styrofoam® pellets.
More appropriate toys are those that simulate the ferrets need for
burrows or their attraction to hunting. Appropriate tunnel-type
toys would include large cardboard mailing tubes, dryer hose, paper
bags and PVC pipe. Toys that simulate moving prey include ping pong
balls, small metal cans, golf balls, and small cloth baby toys or
feather cat toys on springs that hang. Do not use any cloth toys if
your ferret shows an interest in chewing them, but this is usually
baby behavior and cloth is not a problem for adults. Remove buttons
and eyes from any cloth baby toys.
Grooming
In general, ferrets need very little grooming.
Ferrets do not need to be bathed and excessive bathing can actually
cause dryness of the hair coat and skin. Ferrets have a natural
musky odor to the skin that is part of who they are and it will
never be completely eliminated by bathing. To be blunt, if the odor
is a problem you should consider getting a different species of
pet. It is unfair to ferrets to reject this part of their
physiology to suit yourself. Not only are ferrets not meant to
smell like pine trees or pineapples, but also such intense odor
changes are likely very disturbing to the ferret. Unneutered
ferrets do have an especially strong odor involving the skin and
hair coat and the urine, particularly when they are reproductively
active. Scent is huge part of how ferrets communicate with each
other. We can tone down this strong ‘perfume’ by neutering the pet
which will reduce the odor to a light musky smell. Most ferrets
sold in the U.S. have already been neutered at the time of weaning,
so we never have to deal with the sometimes overpowering odor of an
unneutered pet.
Ferrets have a set of paired anal glands, much the same as in dogs
and cats. The family that ferrets belong to, Mustelidae, also
includes skunks, weasels, mink, and they are all known for the
strong odor of their anal gland secretions. Fortunately, ferrets
can’t spray the anal gland contents like a skunk can, and they do
not release the anal gland smell unless they are alarmed or very
fearful. When the scent is released, you can smell a strong odor
for a few minutes and then it fades away. Young ferrets express
their glands much more frequently than do confident adults. It is
not necessary to routinely express or remove the anal glands of a
ferret unless disease is present. However, in the U.S., most
ferrets in the pet trade are sold with the anal glands already
removed at weaning, so this becomes a moot point.
Ferrets normally tend to have a fair amount of reddish brown wax in
their ears. Avoid the urge to continuously remove this wax as it
has a protective function. In addition, continually putting
cotton-tipped applicators into the ear may inadvertently push wax
into the ear canal. Once you have had your ferret checked by a
veterinarian to ensure it is free of disease, let the ferret clean
his or her own ears by shaking its head and scratching from time to
time.
Ferret nails are sharp and may become entangled in carpeting or
cloth. It will be necessary to trim your pet's nails every 6 to 8
weeks to keep them in shape. Have an experienced person show you
how to trim the nail the first time. It is not terribly difficult,
especially if you use a treat such as a fatty acid supplement to
distract them from the procedure! For more information on grooming,
see Ferret Grooming.
Handling
Domestic ferrets are generally easy to handle and are not
aggressive little creatures. However, like all pets, they can be
come frightened and their first response may be to strike out and
protect themselves with their teeth. We do not recommend keeping
ferrets in households with children under 6 years of age because of
the possibility that the child may inadvertently harm the ferret
and an unfortunate accident may result. By the way, this advice
applies to cats, dogs, and other pets as well. In addition, be a
responsible pet owner and never put a pet in a threatening
situation where it will be forced to defend itself. You are
ultimately responsible for all your pet's actions. For more
information on using ferrets in public situations see Reducing the
Risk of Ferret Bites.
Ferrets have poor eyesight and should never be placed in a
situation where they might fall over the edge of a high surface. In
addition, do not hold ferrets near your face, especially if you are
not familiar with his or her behavior yet because a nose can look
like a really neat toy to bite if it comes towards the ferret
suddenly. Most of the time you need only pick up your ferret and
hold him/her in your arms to move him/her from place to place.
Sometimes it is useful to scruff your ferret in order to keep
him/her still for certain procedures like giving medications,
checking the ears, eyes or mouth, or for bathing. To scruff a
ferret, grab the skin along the back of the neck firmly and then
hold the pet up so that the hind feet cannot touch the ground.
Stroke the ferret's underside gently and slowly from top to bottom,
which will relax your pet further. Most ferrets become very relaxed
with this restraint method. Occasionally a younger ferret or a very
frightened animal will object and you will not be able to use this
hold.
Vaccinations
• CANINE DISTEMPER
- Canine distemper virus (CDV) is a contagious disease caused by a
large RNA paramyxovirus (canine distemper virus or CDV). CDV can be
transmitted to ferrets directly from infected animals including
dogs, foxes, raccoons and other ferrets, through contact with
infected material such as shoes or clothing. You can bring CDV home
if you are in contact with infected material in places such as the
woods, a pet store or a breeding facility. Using a CD vaccine that
is not approved for use in ferrets can also transmit CDV. Distemper
Vaccinations for dogs are NOT recommended for ferrets. Most of the
canine vaccines contain other virus vaccines (canine hepatitis,
parvovirus, e.g.). Not only are these extra disease fractions not
necessary for ferrets, but the use of this kind of vaccination can
have serious and even fatal consequences in ferrets.
The current recommendation is to have your pet vaccinated for CDV
annually. High risk situations for ferrets to become exposed to CDV
include ferret shows, exposure to wildlife (especially, raccoons
and feral dogs), outdoor enclosures, outdoor camping, exposure to
pet store animals (e.g. visiting the pet store with your ferret),
and ferrets who are constantly introduced to new ferrets (e.g.
breeding, open enrollment play groups). Baby ferrets receive a
series of vaccinations with the completion at 14 weeks of age.
Adult ferrets that have never had CDV vaccination will initially
receive a series of two boosters, then one annually thereafter.
There are CDV vaccines on the market that are labeled for use in
ferrets.
I will briefly take a moment to mention that a major concern
surrounding vaccination of ferrets for CDV is the possibility of an
anaphylactic (allergic) reaction to the vaccination. This has
unfortunately been a problem with some vaccines that have been used
in the past. Whenever possible, it is best to stay at or near your
veterinarian’s office for a minimum of 30 minutes after a
vaccination so your pet can be observed for any reaction, and if
one occurs, proper steps can be taken. It is unclear why some
ferrets react and others do not, why some react one year but not
again, and why some react every year. With the pressure of the
ferret community, the vaccines have improved dramatically over the
last 15 years. The sad fact is that CDV still exists and in fact is
on the rise in some areas where a large number of ‘homeless’ dogs
exist (e.g. most inner city areas). CDV is a fatal disease with a
long a painful course. With vaccination, it is preventable. I urge
you to discuss your ferret’s life style and vaccination options
with your veterinarian.
For more detailed information on CDV, read Canine Distemper in
Ferrets.
• RABIES– Rabies
is caused by a virus that can affect many species of animals,
including man. The virus is shed in the saliva and transmission is
usually through a bite wound. It can also be spread through contact
of infected saliva with a mucous membrane or any open wound. Since
rabies is a human health issue, there are strict local and state
regulations that govern the vaccination of most domestic pets for
rabies. In some areas of the country, if a ferret bites a human and
it was not vaccinated for rabies, the ferret will be confiscated
and destroyed so the brain can be examined for the rabies virus.
This is the law and your lack of knowledge about it will not
protect you or your pet. Please find out before there is a problem
what the laws are regarding rabies vaccination and ferret bites in
your area. It does not matter if your ferret was never exposed to
rabies, the law will prevail. There is one approved one-year
vaccination for rabies in ferrets but there is no approved 3-year
vaccine. Some areas require the purchase of a rabies tag, which
your pet does not have to wear, but you need to keep for proof of
vaccination. The first vaccination for rabies can be given anytime
after the ferret is 14 weeks of age and annually thereafter. The
following list represents high-risk situations where ferrets
absolutely should be vaccinated for rabies annually:
Ferrets living where rabies vaccination is legally required – This
one is obvious! In many municipalities, licensing of ferrets is
required by law (the same as with dogs and cats). A current rabies
vaccination is required to obtain the license.
Ferrets living outdoors – This includes those taken on camping
trips or walked in wooded areas or living in outdoor cages.
Ferrets with exposure to children – Very young or pet-inexperienced
children can inadvertently frighten or disturb a ferret, which
increases the likelihood of a bite. See Reducing the Risk of Ferret
Bites.
Ferrets that will be used in public demonstrations or attend ferret
shows – When people handle ferrets and are afraid or unfamiliar
with them, they may startle the ferret and increase the possibility
of a bite.
Ferrets that are being boarded – This is a protection for your pet
should he/she inadvertently bite anyone while you were not there to
supervise.
Routine Veterinary Care
Ferrets up to 2 years of
age – Ferrets up to 2 years of age need annual physical
examinations and annual vaccinations for canine distemper and
rabies as described above. Ferrets are susceptible to developing
heartworm disease. If you live in a part of the country where
heartworm disease is a problem for dogs and cats, it may be
recommended that you use a heartworm preventive medication. Your
ferret does not need to be outdoors to contract the disease.
Mosquitoes, which transmit the disease, can easily get into a
house. Heartworm prevention is possible through a number of
different medications used in dogs and cats at the same dose per
pound. Please consult your veterinarian on options.
Ferrets over 2 years of
age – Unfortunately there are a number of diseases that can
plague the ferret after 2 years of age including adrenal disease,
insulinoma, skin and other cancers and heart disease. In order to
manage these problems effectively it is essential to strive for
early detection. For this reason I recommend ferrets over 2 years
of age have a physical examination performed at least every 6
months. For ferrets up to 5 years of age, I recommend annual blood
tests and x-rays to further investigate disease potential. Ferrets
over 5 years of age should have these diagnostic tests performed
every 6 months. Routine vaccinations as well as heartworm
prevention should continue as before. Any additional tests and
procedures can be discussed with your veterinarian. Because
insulinoma (see below) is so common in ferrets over 2 years of age,
it is helpful to routinely fast your pet for 3 to 4 hours before a
routine checkup so the blood glucose can be accurately assessed.
Medical Problems
The following is an overview of just a few of the medical problems
that can afflict the pet ferret. Many of these conditions are seen
in the ferrets as early as 2 years of age, which is why it is so
important to have your pet checked by a veterinarian more than once
a year as your ferret ages. There are many articles in this series
to refer to about specific diseases and they are mentioned on the
first page as well as throughout this article. In addition to these
articles, there is a wealth of information on the Internet and
through local and national ferret organizations. However, sometimes
this information is conflicting, confusing or downright incorrect.
Be a responsible pet owner and educate yourself through more than
one source and discuss any conflicting or new information you may
obtain with your veterinarian. Together, you and your veterinarian
can form a valuable team to provide the best possible care for you
pet.
• EMERGENCIES - If
you feel that you have an emergency situation, tell the veterinary
office when you call that you feel this is an emergency. It can be
difficult for the veterinary staff to know that a situation is an
emergency if you are unclear on basic information or if you don't
specifically say that you think it is an emergency. Be clear and
concise with pertinent information, which includes:
The condition of the ferret at this moment (be as precise as
possible)
How long the condition has been present
Ideas you have on why you think your pet is ill
It is helpful to jot down some notes about your pet before calling
the veterinary office so you don't forget important information.
For more information on this topic read Ferret Emergencies.
• HUMAN INFLUENZA
– Ferrets are highly susceptible to the human influenza virus or
the “flu.” They do not get the common cold, which is caused by
another set of viruses. Ferrets can get the flu from humans and
humans can contract the flu from ferrets through contact with
respiratory secretions. Adult ferrets develop a watery discharge
from the eyes and nose, sneezing, coughing and a fluctuating fever.
Occasionally they also develop diarrhea. They feel miserable for a
few days but usually recover uneventfully. Baby ferrets can be more
severely affected, so avoid handling baby ferrets if you have the
flu. Your veterinarian may prescribe medications to make your pet
more comfortable, but antibiotics are not appropriate for this
disease as it is viral, not bacterial. Basic supportive care
(meeting fluid and nutritional needs) is most important.
• FATAL ANEMIA OF FEMALE
FERRETS – This disease is caused when an unneutered female
ferret goes into estrus or heat and does not get bred. She can stay
in this state for several months during which time her estrogen
levels remain quite high. The estrogen can eventually stop the
production of blood cells in the bone marrow, thereby leading to a
severe anemia and ultimately death. The prevention for this disease
is to have your female ferret spayed. Most American ferrets are
already neutered when they are purchased so we do not see this
disease as frequently as we used to.
• FLEAS – Ferrets
are susceptible to fleas, particularly if they are kept outdoors,
but can also be infested if other pets in the house bring fleas
inside. It is best to avoid the use of insecticides on your pet and
there are safer alternatives that can be used once a month on the
coat during the flea season. It is also vital to clean up the
environment to completely eliminate the flea problem. Please
consult the article Flea Control for Ferretsif you have a problem
with fleas on our pets.
• HEARTWORM
DISEASE – Ferrets, like dogs and cats, are susceptible to
infestation by the heartworm. Mosquitoes transmit the larvae of
this parasite when they feed on a host. The adult worms live in the
heart of the pet and in a ferret, the heart is so small that the
presence of even one or two worms could be fatal. If you live in a
heartworm prevalent area of the country, particularly if your pet
is living outdoors or you have mosquitoes regularly invading your
home, you should have your ferret checked annually for this disease
and use heartworm preventive medication. The standard heartworm
preventive medications are safe to use in the ferret at the same
dose per pound as in the dog or cat. Please consult your
veterinarian regarding options.
• FOREIGN BODIES IN THE
STOMACH OR INTESTINE – Ferrets, particularly under a year of
age, love to eat foam and latex rubber, which can become lodged in
the intestine or stomach. In addition, ferrets over one year of age
can develop large masses of hair in the stomach, which also can
cause an obstruction. All of these situations are dangerous and
usually require surgery to remove the foreign material. Signs of a
foreign body obstruction includes lethargy, extreme dehydration,
vomiting (but they often don't), lack of stools, painful abdomen,
seizures and death. Any ferret who acts lethargic (like a limp rag)
needs to be taken to a veterinarian as soon as possible. If there
is an obstruction, a 24-hour delay could be the difference between
life and death. The best prevention for this problem is to
adequately ferret-proof the environment as described previously.
For more information on this disease see the handouts
Gastrointestinal Disease in Ferretsand Ferret Emergencies.
• EPIZOOTIC CATARRHAL
ENTERITIS (ECE) – This is the name given to “green slime
disease” that has affected ferrets, particularly in shelters, since
1993. The current theory is that this disease is caused by a
coronavirus. Fortunately, most ferrets recover uneventfully from
ECE; however, some ferrets, particularly older ones or those with
other disease, can be severely affected. ECE spreads rapidly and
ferrets exposed will exhibit signs of disease within 48 to 72
hours. The most common historical finding involves a new ferret
addition to the household. The new ferret is healthy in appearance
but the established ferrets in the home get ill. It is also
possible for you to bring in the disease after exposure to infected
ferrets at pet stores or ferret shows. ECE can result in both
inflammation of the GI tract as well as inflammation of the liver.
The signs of illness initially can range from vomiting and a soft,
green, mucous-coated stool to bloody diarrhea. Recovered ferrets
and some unaffected ferrets may be carriers. Young ferrets usually
recover from ECE rapidly, but older ferrets may lose significant
body condition and continue wasting once the diarrhea is gone.
Treatment depends on the severity of the illness and can include
intestinal coating agents or antacids, anti-diarrheal drugs,
antibiotics, injectable fluids and dietary changes. For more
information on ECE, please read Gastrointestinal Disease in
Ferrets.
• ALEUTIAN DISEASE
– This is a viral disease that has been around for a long time in
mink that were farmed for fur. The disease does occur in the ferret
and it can cause a wide range of signs due to the variety of organs
that can be affected. There is currently great controversy over the
incidence of Aleutian Disease in the ferret population. Currently
there is no treatment or vaccination for this disease. For a more
in depth, scientific article, refer to Aleutian Disease in Ferrets.
• HEART DISEASE –
Ferrets over 2 years of age can develop heart disease. The most
common type seen is cardiomyopathy or heart muscle disease. We do
not know why ferrets develop this problem; however, it could at
least be in part genetic. The signs of the disease are weakness,
particularly after exercise, and an overall loss of energy. Ferrets
usually don't cough, but may have more rapid breathing. There are
three basic types of cardiomyopathy in ferrets and each is treated
with a combination of heart medications. Diagnosis of the type of
disease requires a ultrasound of the heart and sometimes an ECG
(electrocardiogram). The prognosis for control of heart disease
depends on the type of disease and its severity.
• SKIN TUMORS – As
ferrets age they are more prone to develop lumps and bumps on their
skin. Most of these lumps are neoplasms or tumors. Fortunately the
majority are benign, but it is best to have them removed because
one cannot tell benign from malignant without a biopsy. The longer
you wait to have them removed, the greater the possibility for
complications. Please read Lumps and Bump on Ferret Skinfor more
information on this topic.
• ADRENAL DISEASE
– This is a very common disease of ferrets over 2 years of age. It
is either a neoplasm (cancer) or hyperplasia (unusually high
activity) of the adrenal glands, which are located near the top of
each kidney. These glands are part of the endocrine or hormone
producing system of the body. For unknown reasons, in ferrets the
adrenal glands become diseased and can enlarge and cause pressure
on surrounding tissues, such as the kidney and vena cava, but more
importantly they produce excessive amounts of androgens or sex
hormones. This overproduction of hormones results in a variety of
signs including a symmetrical loss of hair, increase in body odor,
enlargement of the vulva in spayed females, return of the mating or
aggressive urge in neutered males, dry brittle hair coat and itchy
skin. In addition, some males can develop an enlargement of the
prostate gland, which constricts urinary outflow. These ferrets
have difficulty urinating and eventually may not be able to urinate
at all. There are now many different possibilities for managing
adrenal disease. There are a number of medical and surgical options
as well as options that combine surgery and medical treatment. For
more information on the prostate problem read Prostate Disease in
Ferrets.
• INSULINOMA -
This is neoplasm of the beta cells in the pancreas. This disease
often occurs at the same time as adrenal disease and is just as
common. The pancreas, like the adrenal glands, is also part of the
endocrine or hormone producing system. The beta cells produce
insulin, which acts to move glucose from the bloodstream into the
cells. Diabetes is a lack of insulin that prevents glucose from
getting into the cells, resulting in a high glucose level in the
bloodstream. Insulinoma is an excessive production of insulin that
drives the glucose out of the bloodstream and into the cells too
quickly, resulting in a low blood sugar level. This leaves the
brain and red blood cells with an insufficient supply of “fuel for
energy,” which results in weakness, excessive salivation, seizures
and eventually death. These signs are seen intermittently because
the body is constantly trying to replace the glucose and early in
the disease it can successfully do so for periods of time. The
signs may disappear on their own. As the disease progresses,
however, the ferret has longer and more frequent periods of
abnormal behavior. The treatment for this disease is usually
surgery to remove as much of the cancer as possible combined with
lifelong medication. It is critical to remove as much carbohydrate
from the diet as possible as well because carbohydrates will only
aggravate the condition.
• OTHER CANCER –
For unknown reasons, ferrets are prone to a number of other
neoplasms in addition to insulinomas, adrenal cancer and skin
cancer. Lymphosarcoma is a cancer of the lymphatic system and is
the one cancer that can affect ferrets of any age. At time it was
thought that lymphosarcoma could be caused by a virus (like in
cats). While this theory remains unproven, this cancer can occur in
clusters of ferrets in a single home. It can be treated in many
cases with chemotherapy, but the success varies with each case.
Other organs that can be affected by neoplasia include liver,
kidneys, spleen, anal glands, ovaries, testicles, gums, bones and
lungs. The treatment is dependent on the cancer, and the condition
of the pet
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